Mountain biking in Tuscany near Montieri

 

This season has been the season of the mountain bikers, streetbikers, and even motorbikers.  They come from around the world with tour groups, as the lone wanderer, in couples, and with friends.  All, however, have a common passion for self-powered wheels.  Us horseback riders tell them four legs are better, but they disagree.  I guess the thrill of the Tuscan hills gives them all the adrenaline they could need. Perhaps one day we can offer a trade, the bikers try riding for a day and the riders take a spin on two wheels.  Hmm…

One of the reasons for the high biking traffic in Tuscany is that the terrain around Montieri and throughout Tuscany offers every type of biker endless miles of fantastic landscape over which they can peddle their little hearts out.  There are so many mapped and cleaned trails that can be used by bikers, walkers, and riders alike.  A few weeks back, we had a group take mountain bikes from the hotel Prategiano to the beach in Follonica via off-road trails; a meager 6 hours of travelling including rain, sun, and a lot of mud.  Yet, when I came to retrieve them at the end they were thrilled.  I guess there is something to be said for this addicting and satisfying exercise!  

A Day with the Butteri - the Cowboys of Tuscany

Today riders of the Horse Riding Center in Tuscany "Prategiano" had the opportunity to ride with the Maremma Butteri, or the Maremma cowboys!  This group of easy-going Italians invited us to join them for a trail and an afternoon of eating and entertainment.  At 8:45 am (yikes!) we left the barn at Prategiano and rode to Travale to meet the group of 20 or so local riders.  Then, we all rode out for a nice morning hack.

For once this season, we had perfect sunny weather for the entire day.  After a typical Tuscany trekking through the hills surrounding Travale, we returned to care for the horses and to reconvene for an Italian lunch at the local restaurant.  The whole group with extra husbands, wives, and children included, gathered in the cantina for eating and a little singing, too.  After coffee (of course), we returned to the horses and began to prepare for the afternoon’s demonstrations.  The organizer and local Buttero, Fabio, asked if we would like to join in herding a group of loose horses up to the arena.  Of course we would!  So, off we went with the Butteri and a few western cowboys with their appaloosas.  I even had the opportunity to save the day by blocking an escaping herd with our new young Maremma horse.  Bravo, good boy!  We then watched some demonstrations with Spanish horses, some Spanish dancing, and the first ride for Fabio’s mule.  The finale was a horsemanship demonstration that was truly inspiring to watch.  In the evening, we saddled up again and headed back to our hotel in Tuscany, Rifugio Prategiano, with the setting sun and tranquil evening air giving the perfect backdrop to a beautiful day.

Stormy Adventure in May in Tuscany

Contrary to popular belief, it is not actually always sunny in Tuscany.  In the springtime, the weather is extremely fickle, changing from summer to winter in one afternoon.  Today, a sunny morning turned to a stormy afternoon, but us riders made an adventure out of it nonetheless.  Planning on a Tuscany horseback ride to Travale, a nearby village, four of us set out in the morning with sun on our shoulders.  After crossing over the mountain ridge and descending into the valley, the skies began to darken and clouds appeared behind the peaks.  

Immediately following an exhilarating gallop, a clap of thunder startled us into the realization that a thunderstorm was upon us.  Choosing to ignore it for the moment, we continued on.  Donning long rain jackets just in time, the drops came splashing down and the clouds rumbled.  We felt like pioneers, explorers caught in a storm.  The landscape changed from bright and sparkling to deep and ominous, but it was still beautiful: a deep mountainous purple beauty.  As we retraced the trail back to the stables, it began to lighten, and even stopped and let a bit of sun back through as we unsaddled the horses.  Moments after returning to our agriturismo in Tuscany, Rifugio Prategiano for lunch, however, another storm came through.  This time we were happy to be watching it from the other side of a glass window with a hot cappuccino.  Watching the weather come through the mountains from this altitude - with the trees blowing and the mist catching on the mountains - can turn even a stormy day around our hotel in Maremma into a romantic Tuscan painting. 

Hike the Poggio di Montieri

It’s the perfect time of year for hiking in Tuscany. The summer heat has yet to arrive in full, the flowers are blooming, and everything is green and beautiful.  Today we will go on a “guided” tour around the mountain of Montieri.  We will start at the Hotel Prategiano:

Leaving the hotel we walk up the paved road that leads to the top of the mountain.  Gaining altitude, the beautiful Tuscan panorama begins to peak out from the foliage.  At Il Piano Park we turn left and enter into the chestnut and pine forest to the left of the mountain.  Now we are above the town of Montieri.  In the summer, Il Piano is used to host sagras and local gatherings and picnics.  There are places to grill and tables for everyone.  At the bottom of the first wooded hill, we find signs telling us some of the history of this area.  Montieri and its surrounding community gained importance through mining.  The hills are called metalifere – full of metal.  Here they mined copper, silver, pyrite, iron ore, and more.  There are still old mining entrances (now closed) visible on the mountain.  Ascending another ten minutes we reach the highest altitude of the hike.  Here, there is a beautiful view of the southwestern hills.  Now, we enter into a shady pine forest.  Making our way around, we come to a fence that borders the trail to the left.  In late August/September this fence is composed entirely of blackberries.  Take a handful while walking through Tuscany!  This is my favorite part of the hike. We look out to the green distance and the towns of Bocchegiano and Prata.  This is the calm and warm side of the mountain.  A rocky ledge lies to the right.  After a few ups and downs we enter again into another forest.  This time, the trees create an atmosphere reminiscent of a jungle.  Shady with cascades of water and slate underfoot, these woods are beautiful and peaceful.  Finally we emerge onto a gravel road and turn to the right.  Here, workers are busy harvesting sturdy trees in their ten-year cycle.  When we reach the crumbling farmhouses on the left, we turn up to the right and pass the old Follavento site.

Continuing on, we enter the chestnut forest on the other side of the mountain.  In the fall, this area is full of people.  In October they come to collect mushrooms, and shortly after, they come for the chestnuts.  It is amazing how much a landscape can change within twenty minutes of walking.  Here, the atmosphere is vastly different.  Wooded with a thick matt of old leaves and dense dirt, the trees reach up on a steep terrain.  It is cooler and the trail narrow.  There is no view as the trees block the visibility.  Finishing the circle, we descend onto the asphalt road that leads back to the hotel. Surprisingly, one can find many wildflowers along the decent to the street and along the street itself.  We count ten to fifteen different varieties.  We pass the man with the roosters and his beautiful apple trees, and finish our walk across from our agriturismo in Tuscany, Rifugio Prategiano.  After a little more than two hours, we have witnessed a great variety of plant life (and hopefully animal too!) and have seen how slight differences in orientation and altitude can change the landscape of the mountain of Montieri.

Tiramisù - Typlical dessert in Tuscany

When one thinks of a typical Italian dessert, tiramisu is surly at the forefront.  Literally meaning, “pull me up”, this delicious Tuscan dessert has spread to the rest of the world, and has morphed into many different varieties, including even pineapple!  Here, at our agriturismo in Tuscany, Rifugio Prategiano, our chef makes her traditional version to share with our guests and after a long day of sight-seeing, mountain biking, horseback riding or cyling in Tuscany, a nice dessert is waiting for you. Below we have provided one version of the Tuscan tiramisu.

Ingredients

2 Eggs


250g/8 oz Mascarpone


A packet of Savoiardi (Ladies Fingers)
 or pavesini

Cocoa to decorate


2 Cups of Strong Expresso Coffee


Splash of Milk


Small glass of coffee liquor


50g Chocolate (your preference)

How to make the Tiramisu

1.  Separate the eggs into yolks and whites.

2.  Beat the egg whites until they form stiff peaks and set aside.

3.  Beat the egg yolks and sugar together to form a creamy paste. 

4.  Add the mascarpone and mix until uniform.

5.  Gently fold the egg whites into the mascarpone mixture.

6.  Make a bowl of strong coffee (preferably espresso), and add a splash of milk.

7.  Add the coffee liquor.

8.  Dip each biscuit into the coffee mixture until it is saturated, and move it to the bottom of a square glass pan. 

9.  Line the bottom of the pan with cookies, and then cover with a layer of cream mixture.

10.  Sprinkle grated chocolate on top.

11.  Repeat with another layer of cookies and cream, and top everything with coco and grated chocolate.

12.  Before serving, put in the fridge for at least two hours.

(Note: as this recipe is made with raw eggs it must be stored in the fridge and consumed within a day or two)

You absolutely need to taste this speciality during your holidays in Tuscany !

 

Motorbike Race Event in Tuscany: "Tasselli d'epoca"

Today there is a special event being held in Montieri near our hotel in Tuscany.  Men and women from all over Italy have come to participate in a motorbike race/demonstration called, “Campionato Italiano - Gruppo 5 Regolarità - Trofeo Imerio Testori ‘ Tasselli d'Epoca 2013’", or:  the italian championship of old enduro motorbikes.  Soon the riders will start their trip along the trails and roads of Montieri, finishing below the hotel.    It is strange to see such a crowd in our tiny town! The endless miles of scenic dirt trails and the empty asphalt streets makes Montieri the perfect location for motor-cross lovers, and even street-bike fans.  These tracks lead through medieval towns, shady forests, and up and down the hills and valleys of Tuscany.

For today's event they have erected tents, food stops, courses around the mountain, and other activities.  The atmosphere of the whole town is geared toward the motorbike event.  For dinner last night we hosted a few large groups of excited moto-enthusiasts.  What fun!   

Go Montieri and stay with us at our agriturismo in Tuscany, Rifugio Prategiano!

Wildflowers of Tuscany

One of the most anticipated harbingers of springtime in Maremma Toscana is the appearance of wildflowers.  Starting at the end of March, the hills and forests around our hotel in Tuscany begin to sprinkle themselves with color.  Tiny white, pink, yellow, purple, and blue flowers are seen along path sides and in open fields, or under the dead leaves from the past year.  They start slowly and then, at the beginning of May, grow in full force across the landscape powdering everything with their splendor; a natural event that is truly worth seeing.  It is a personal goal to learn to recognize each of them, and although lack of time usually gets the better of me, I have started to identify and photograph a few species.  

The first flowers we began to see while riding through the woods in early April were le Primule salvati, or wild yellow primroses.  They grow in little bunches with thick green leaves.  Both the flowers and leaves are edible and the cook of our Toscana hotel uses them to decorate some dishes.  I read that they taste something between mild lettuce and bitter salad greens. The leaves can also be used for tea, and the young flowers can be made into primrose wine.

Around the same time or shortly after (listed in relative order) we saw violette selvatiche, wild violets; ranucolo, buttercups; la calendula, marigold; narciso, daffodils; il finocchio selvatico, wild fennel; ciclamini selvatici, wild cyclamen; la malva, mallow flower; stella di Betlemme, star of Bethlehem flower; coriandolo, coriander; il glicine, wisteria; purple iris; lilla, lilac; viola selvatica, a type of wild blue pansy; margherita comune, the oxeye daisy; and another unidentified small pink wildflower.  

Most recently the favored Tuscan flower has began to show its bright red face: the poppy.  These flowers are famous in this area and are a magnificent sight whether found by the side of the road or in huge abundant fields.  Later in the season the sunflowers will make their golden stand.  From now until the winter frost, the Maremma landscape surrounding Prategiano will be constantly changing from one shade of wildflowers to the next.

Swedish travellers can read all information about our hotell i Toscana following this link. Dutch clients can find the website of our hotel in Toscane on this website. 

The Horses of the Trail Riding Center Prategiano

The Prategiano Team is made up of staff members from around the world and a group of the most wonderful horses for a perfect horse riding holiday in Tuscany.  Each of our furry staff members has a unique personality.  At this moment the herd consists of 14 horses of mixed breeds.

We have five Maremma horses, which are the local breed used by the butteri (Maremma cowboys).  Dark colors, long ears, and sturdy build characterize these horses.  In the past they were typically a working horse mostly used for cattle, but more recently they have been crossed with thoroughbreds and more slender horses to create an all-around saddle horse.

These horses are called the “improved Maremma horse”.  They are wonderful horses for trail riding in Tuscany because they have learned to adapt to difficult terrain and bad weather.  They are strong and surefooted.  Among our other horses there is a halflinger named Asia who has been with us for a long time, and is considered the mascot of Prategiano.  She is a sweet and quiet girl who is wonderful with children and beginners.  We have two trotting horses, two ponies, a Spanish mix, and three other mixed breeds.  The mixed breeds - Saba, Top Gun, and Tango - are definitely some of the barn favorites.  Saba is a beautiful black horse with a white star.  She is great with children and loves to swim, perhaps even a little too much, as some clients have told me after taking an unexpected bath in the river.  Top Gun is a perfect little orange horse.  He is strong, sensitive, and likes to run.  And Tango is the farm’s “special boy”.  He is known for crossing his front legs, sitting like a dog, and - unfortunately for the rider behind him – farting.  Typical man!  He is entirely black and a sweet, sweet boy.  These wonderful animals have brought so many smiles and unforgettable experiences to the guests of Prategiano.  A toast to the horses! Come to see them during you next horse holidays in Italy !

Maremma cats at our agriturismo

The barn at our agriturismo in Tuscany, Rifugio Prategiano, is becoming famous, not only for its horses, but now for the renowned Maremma cats!  I guess I can understand; how can one resist those blue eyes and fuzzy little ears? After posting multiple photos of cats on our Facebook page and receiving 50 likes, versus the 15 likes for the photo of a horse, I thought perhaps the barn should be re-named, “The Horse and Cat agriturismo Prategiano".

Our cat herd now has nine members.  Mamma cat can mark the beginning.  This year is her third birthday.  Last April, Mio was born.  He is now my big teddy bear tomcat and a total Mamma’s boy (cat mamma, that is).  He enjoys posing for photos and rolling around in the dirt, or hay, or grass, or anything else under his paws at the time.  Four months after Mio arrived, Mamma gave him three little siblings:  Leo, Mia, and L.B.  These guys have moved up to the hotel where they act as ambassadors for the guests having a drink on the terrace.  Then, on Easter Sunday this year, Mamma gave us four more little presents who are now 5 weeks old.  These guys are TOO cute.  Fat little balls of fun and mischief.  They make us laugh all day long. We have guests who come down to the stables everyday to see, feed and play with the kitties.  I think the horses are beginning to get a bit jealous.  And of course Mamma cat is always jealous.  She must be the most lovely animal we have ever met.  And she just makes the most beautiful babies!

Maremma Fresh Fruit in Tuscany

The cherries are coming!  The sun is strong and you can smell summer returning.  Soon the fruit trees will be full of sweet fruit.  The first arrivals are the cherries.  The first time one picks ripe, red, shining cherries from a branch above his or her head, it is love at first taste.  Every season all Tuscany and the hotel team wait for the cherries.  The area must have magic for producing these perfect berries.

As the season advances, the cherry savvy members of Hotel Prategiano begin to check the trees.  There are two varieties of cherries growing on our property:  the smaller, bright and slightly transparent ones, and the deep dark delicious ones.  Clearly the latter are favored.  The secret tree resides in a field by the stables, and we will have to fight with the birds to be the first to arrive.  Following the cherries, the peaches and strawberries make their appearance.  These are also groan-inspiringly delicious.

The suzine also come out during this time.  Then there are the apricots.  At Prategiano one can find all of these succulent treats growing freely within walking distance of the front door.  This availability of delicious wild produce is equally amazing each year.  The last to makes its appearance in Montieri is the blackberry.  The mountain will be overflowing with these dark purple, black berries.  They line the sides of the trails and beg to be eaten.  Last year Nonna Paradisi gave a demonstration on how to turn them into jelly.  Yum!!  From now until the cold returns, you will always see guests returning from trail rides with sticky fingers; the telltale remnants of a snack on-the-go!

Nonna’s Blackberry Jam Recipe

So simple, and taste-tested delicious!

First, pick a bunch (about 6 cups, no more than will fit in a normal family pasta pan) of blackberries and weigh them. Then, measure half as much white sugar (in grams) and put both in a pan on medium heat on the stove. Add one packet of pectin and heat until boiling. Keep heating until berries turn into a thick sauce. 

Next, run the sauce through a fine strainer to take out many of the seeds. Put the hot jam into clean glass jars and seal with a lid. In 24 hours you will have delicious homemade jelly!!! For more information about our restaurant in Montieri and the dishes of the Maremma, please visit our page! 

Now the only step left is to book your autumn holiday in Tuscany at Prategiano!

Wildlife in Maremma Tuscany

If you are travelling in Tuscany and do not learn the Italian word cinghiale or, wild boar, you have not spent enough time here. These native pigs are everywhere…everywhere! Although they are not exactly cute, their stout brown noses and little tusks will make you smile. Typically I see them in large groups: 20 babies and one mamma, or a few adults together. If we see cinghiale while our horse riding in Tuscany, all horseback riders are delighted. They often ask if the horses are afraid of these wild animals to which I reply, “definitely not.” It is always the boars that run, while the horses watch attentively, seeming to say, “look, more of those things running through the woods.” Seeing them gives you the satisfaction of witnessing one of Italy’s native inhabitants in its environment. (You may also see these critters on the dinner table, a typical Tuscan dish.) The wild boars can be destructive, too. It is not uncommon to hear of an ongoing boar versus garden battle from the neighbor. I remember when my mother came to visit me last year we were driving home on her last night in the country and she desperately wanted to see cinghiale. Not two minutes after expressing her disappointment, we passed four huge specimens munching some grass on the side of the road.

 

While riding I have seen many other animals that I never saw in the States including, badgers, porcupines, hedgehogs and small red deer. We often see falcons and hawks, too. Tiny lizards part the Red Sea as I lead the way across the Maremma terrain. Once, I had a close encounter with a “viper”(to an Italian, all snakes are vipers) as I dismounted to pick up dropped sunglasses. Reaching down, I almost made contact with the sleeping snake. Of course my clients thought this was hilarious as I jumped about ten feet backwards out of surprise (not fear, I like the little guys!). The snake never moved.

Last year we found an abandoned baby deer in the woods (we named him Kiko). We fed and cared for it all summer and into the fall until he was old enough to join the other deer back in the forest. 

No matter where you go, you are sure to see wildlife from your window of our Hotel in Maremma Tuscany. It is a special part of the environment, one that is sure to make you smile. 

Destination Saturnia: hot pools in Tuscany

One of the many good things about our hotel in Tuscany, Prategiano is that it is the perfect base location for visiting the endless attractions the region offers.

Saturnia is a small Tuscan town located on a hilltop south of Montieri, a short drive from Hotel Prategiano. Saturnia is a gorgeous town, but the main attraction for us was the Terme di Saturnia, the natural hot pools. These waters are amazing. Flowing from a waterfall and cascading down into small pools, these waters create an atmosphere of peace and relaxation. The pools have been in use since the Roman times, and are famous for their health benefits. At a constant 37.5 degrees Celsius, the pools are always warm.  As it is still the beginning of the summer season, we were able to enjoy this popular place without the tourist crowds.

As everyone knows, no trip is complete without ice cream, so after our dip we headed straight for the gelato stand before setting back to our hotel in Toscana.  Nothing beats Italian gelato!

On our way back to the hotel we drove through part of the Chianti wine region, snapping photos of vineyards, olive groves and, most importantly, the poppies that have just begun to flower.

Food and lifestyle in Tuscany

One of the most famous characteristics of Tuscany, and Italy in general, is its amazing food.  Eating, cooking, and making food products are such a crucial part of the Italian lifestyle.  Even though this may sound a bit travel guidey, it is the truth.  Only as an ex-pat am I able to observe the importance of food in this culture; the Italians give me a sidelong look when I try to explain: “duh”.  The role of food brings structure, interaction, and warmth into each day for an Italian family.  The daily schedule of every working Italian revolves around meal times.

Here, at our hotel in Maremma Tuscany, 12 pm means time for lunch.  Everything stops.  Everyone eats.  Yum.  And no wonder!  Here, in the Maremma Tuscany, there are special local dishes that integrate the typical products from the region.  Our kitchen proudly serves these local specialties. Ribollita, one of these dishes, is a Tuscan soup with a twist.  It incorporates vegetables, beans, and cabbage with a fresh broth and, most importantly, dried bread.  

The bread brings a special rustic, comforting consistency.  It’s so good! Pici is a pasta found in Tuscany.  It is similar to very thick round spaghetti.  Cinghiale, or wild boar, is a must try for meat eaters.  Often, I will see them scurrying through the woods while walking the dog during my holidays in Tuscany.  Here, we serve boar steamed with wine and spices.  

Tortelli stuffed with ricotta and spinach, served in a butter and sage sauce is another one of my favorites.  The list continues. The typical Italian meal has at least two courses.  Unlike in America, here the meat and starch are served separately. I cannot forgot a small ode to pizza.  In the village of Montieri there is a pizzeria that serves the best pizza I have ever had.  Tuscan pizza is thin.  You eat a whole one yourself and look for more.  My favorite is made with a four-cheese cream sauce, chunks of aged pecorino, arugula, and fresh chopped tomatoes.  Basically, I think about food all day long.  Not that I didn’t before, but…

Coffee.  Another spoke that helps to turn the Italian day.  And I don't mean watered down American coffee.  Espresso.  I thought I could never learn to drink this elixir, but I’ve been won over.  It’s so good.  I prefer most of the time a well-made creamy, rich cappuccino.  That is, espresso, with two parts steamed milk and one part foam.  I like mine from the Country Bar in Montieri where every morning I find a perfect heart shape in the foam.  Traditions.  Routines.  Delicious traditional routines.  Mamma mia!